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Campus Martius: Mars' Field, the heart of ancient Rome

Piazza del Popolo Rome's historical center used to be a field that ancient Romans referred to as Campus Martius. The field's name is in honor of the war god, Mars, whose temple was built there. Initially young men worked out and practiced their military drills in the shadow of their "patron saint's" temple. As Rome expanded, however, Augustus and other emperors developed the area until it became a ritzy neighborhood full of public baths, entertainment centers, and stores that sold luxury items. Archeologists have not been able to locate Mars' temple, but Italians still call this vast area Campo Marzio, which comes directly from the ancient Latin name.

Our stroll takes us through a good portion of Campo Marzio where we'll admire a variety of sights from the very ancient to the Renaissance. We meet at Piazza di Spagna (the Spanish Steps) built in 1725 and we then move on to the Trevi Fountain. One of the most interesting facts that come to the fore at the beginning of this visit is just how the Emperor Augustus, right at the cusp of the B.C/A.D. period, managed to provide this bustling metropolis of a million people with nearly the same amount of fresh, running water that we consume on a daily basis today.


Then, after a relaxing meander through some side streets, we encounter the Emperor Hadrian's impressive Pantheon, an edifice which offers a rich selection of topics to discuss. How many times was it built? How was it built? What are its similarities and differences to other Roman temples? Could it have been a 'tourist trap' even eighteen hundred years ago?

Passing near the Pantheon, where both Agrippa and Nero built their public baths, we will discuss the history of physical education and the Romans' very modem obsession of "mens sana in corpore sano" (a sound mind in a sound body). After imagining getting cleaned up and rubbed down, we'll go in search of a little entertainment at Domitian's stadium, also known as the much-loved Piazza Navona.


The tour ends with the wise words and friendly admonitions of Pasquino, one of several "talking statues". Rome's talking statues are a tradition, born in the 1500s as Roman citizens became frustrated with over-taxation and papal politics. They would hang their caustic criticism, stinging epigrams and short satiric verses on the statue. A person could be punished for exercising his or her opinion publicly; it was more difficult to punish a statue. Pasquino not only represents an ancient tradition but is still opining today.

Entrance fees: No entrance fees are incurred.
Note: This is a great tour for people who want to see and understand a sizeable portion of ancient and modern Rome.

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